Climbing Cam Strength

 
 

The videos below show different cam and nut placements and give commentary on different aspects of the placement. Watch the videos and learn how much force it takes to blow out each placement! Just for fun, guess how much force each placement will blow out at before watching the film.


What you’ll learn from watching these videos:

  1. Place your cams in the anticipated direction of pull (in other words... if you’re placing a cam to catch a fall, then the stem of the cam should be pointing downward)

  2. A cam is stronger in the smaller part of the expansion range

  3. A cams strength is significantly compromised if the crack flares (even just a little)

  4. Good cams are placed in parallel sided cracks, or even in a constriction, with good rock quality


The strength of a cam in the rock is more important than the strength that is on the manufacturers label. Watch these videos and see if you have a keen sense of a good placement or a bad placement.

Cam Strength in the rock