splitter climbing gear

Rappelling Knots Reviewed And Tested

What is the best way to tie two ropes together for a rappel? Some say the Euro Death Knot, some say the Flemish Bend (follow through figure 8), some stand by the tried and true double fisherman. Though there is no conclusive evidence to say that one knot is purely superior to another, there are some interesting studies that we can look at so that we are more knowledgeable about our rappelling knots. Tom Moyer did some testing on the Euro Death Knot and on some other rappelling knots. His testing results and opinions can be read at: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html.

In Rock & Ice issue 158 on pages 84 and 86 they rate three common knots used for rappelling. The ring bend (water knot) receives 4 stars. They comment saying that if it’s not tied tightly, this knot can untie itself, so nice long tails are desirable. Also, it’s challenging to untie after being weighted. They recommend that when using this knot you back it up with an overhand in each tail. The double fisherman’s knot also gets 4 stars. They point out that is is less likely to come untied than the ring bend, though it’s harder to untie after being weighted. It’s also a more involved knot to tie and when tied with different sized ropes, the smaller diameter rope can get sucked into the larger diameter rope. Lastly, they give the Euro Death Knot (EDK) 1 star. This knot is weaker than the double fisherman or the ring bend. It is also more likely to capsize (flip over itself, causing the tails to get shorter and eventually untie the knot) than the other two knots. This knot is easy to tie and some say that it’s less likely to get stuck when you pull your ropes. Regardless of this, the EDK is not recommended because its cons far outweigh its pros.

Splitter Climbing Gear recommends using the Flemish Bend with double fisherman backup knots. If you are really concerned about getting your ropes stuck, and you  can not be convinced not to use the Euro Death Knot (flat overhand), then make sure you take special care to tie it properly. After you tie the EDK make sure that you tighten the knot by pulling individually on all 4 strands of rope. Be sure that the knot is as tight as you can get it and that it was tied cleanly. Also, make sure that you have sufficiently long tails (approximately 2 feet should do just fine). It’s not a bad idea to back it up with another overhand, or with your backup knot of choice.

Another issue relating to knots in the world of climbing is what knot is the best to use when tying-in? In Rock & Ice issue 158 on page 114 they give the trace-eight a 5 star rating for use as a tie-in knot. It’s an easy knot to learn and to inspect. In this same article, they give the double bowline a 4 star rating. They say that it’s more complex and thus harder to learn how to tie and more difficult to inspect. Though, if you know how to tie it properly and you back it up securely, then it’s as secure as the trace -eight. Tying in with a bowline vs. a figure 8 is also discussed in Rock & Ice issue 154 page 80. In this article, they suggest using only the follow-through figure 8 as your tie-in knot. Though uncommon, a bowline can untie itself, and because of this Rock & Ice suggests against using it in this article. Another reason not to use this knot is because it is widely accepted that the bowline is a slightly weaker knot than the follow-through figure 8. In Rock & Ice issue 159 page 74-75 they reference a study done by Black Diamond that shows that a standard trace-8 weakens the rope by 25 to 30 percent compared to a double bowline that weakens it by 30 to 35 percent. So then, why do some climbers prefer to tie in with a double bowline? If you’re working a route that is far above your ability level, and you’re going to be falling a whole lot, then that trace-8 might be kind of hard to get out. Aside from this one argument, must other arguments favor the use of the follow-through figure 8. However, if you’re not convinced, and you’re still going to tie in with a double bowline, then Splitter Climbing Gear recommends that you back it up once or even twice just to be sure. You can easily back up the double bowline with a Yosemite finish and then back it up again with a double fisherman. Regardless of whether you use the double bowline or the trace-8, always make sure that you have tied the knot correctly before you leave the ground, and always back up your tie-in knots!

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